Woodlore Blog

<< Read Part 3 <<

Part 4:

Tightening the hammock:

On the other side, do the same, but without the two outer tension ropes. After you take the two ropes through the first bar, weave them through the edge meshes of the hammock and insert them through the second bar. Hang your hammock between two fixed points now and go in it. Make sure you distribute your weight as evenly as possible when you first enter the hammock. Before entering, it is wise to check the hammock if the mesh and mazes are even, and adjust them when necessary. When I worked with paracord I found that the knots were able to slide and move because of the slipperiness of the cord.

The hammock will now stretch out. Depending on the material you have chosen you will probably have to repeat it a couple of times. I use a Timber Hitch on one end and a Waggoner’s Hitch on the other. This last knot is described in Ray’s Essential Bushcraft book on page 168, and is ideal to put some tension to your hammock. Tighten the hammock again and again and put your full weight on your project until you feel the hammock is not getting any longer.

At this time be careful not to fall out of your hammock because the outer tension ropes are not in use at this time. When they are in use these ropes will greatly improve your ability to stay in your hammock. When you think your hammock has been stretched enough it is time to put the outer tensioning ropes to work. Connect the loose ends of those outer tensioning ropes with each other with a simple Reef Knot.    

By tightening or loosening those outer ropes you are able to switch between different models of your hammock.  Tightening those ropes will result in a model consisting of a bathtub, while loosening those ropes will result in a hammock like an ironing board. Now, check the rest of your hammock and remove any pieces of rope which are too long.

The finished Hammock:

Figure 14 - The Finished Hammock

Woodlore would like to thank John van Zanen for all of his hard work in putting this extensive guide together. You can expect more from this contributor in the future…

To everyone out there who has used this guide to make your own hammock, please let us know how you got on, and send us a photo to show where your hammock ended up!

Back in August of this year, we posted some photos on our blog of a Julius Pettersson knife, which Woodlore customer Nick Simmons had made a handle for. Shortly after this, Nick got in touch with us again to share some photos of his original WK1 Woodlore Knife, which, after years of use, he decided to re-scale.

When asked if he’d mind us posting the pictures on our blog, he replied, “Yes, but I fear the puritans will hunt me down and lynch me for changing it!” Well, there’s only one way to find out! Let us know what you think of Nick’s handiwork:

Hi there,

I had some fun over the past few days re-scaling my Woodlore Knife. The original maple had stained over the years, so I decided to have a change:

Nick's re-scaled WK1 Woodlore Knife

(more…)

<< Read Part 2 <<

Part 3:

Now that you have finished the hard work of making all those knots, you are ready for the finishing and final constructing of your hammock. At this time you will probably be able to make a Sheet Bend knot blindfolded. I have several hammocks knotted using sisal rope, but sisal really is murder on your hands. In the past I have worked with sisal until my hands were sore and blistering. So it was about time to try to make a hammock of green paracord. This makes life more easier. There is always a great sense of relief when you finally finish the net of the hammock. A milestone so to speak.

Now, cut 20 pieces of rope of 220 centimetres; these ropes you will be doubled and will be attached to the ends of the mesh of your hammock, acting as guy wires. Use two double wires for the middle two guy wires. This is because most of the force will be put to those wires. Figure 8 shows the mesh you need to take to attach the wires to. 

Figure 8 - Lines & Mesh

(more…)

The following post was kindly provided by Woodlore customer Craig Turner:

Dear Ray Mears and Woodlore team,

First and foremost I would like to thank you for the enlightment over the years on the many people, places and the knowledge that you hold. Alongside forgotten pioneering explorers, you have also brought wonderful craftsman to the forefront of my attention. Thank you.

The raw materials

My Julius Pettersson knife handle is a composition of reindeer antler supplied by Woodlore, leather spacers, Berchemia Zeyheri (Pink Ivory Wood) and Brosimum Guianensis (Snake Wood):

Gluing the pieces into place

All finished off with scraper and 1200 grit paper, and then boiled linseed oil:

Craig's finished knife

About to start another, could get addicted to this!

Craig Turner

<< Read Part 1 <<

Part 2:

Make a small Bowline Knot in the first piece of rope and put the loop around the nail in cross B. Zigzag the rope loosely around the nails of the first and second row. When you reach the last nail in the first row, put the rope around the last nail in the third row and turn to the last nail of the second row to make your first knot (see Figure 3A & 3B).

Figure 3A - The Start

Figure 3B - The First Knot

(more…)

Over the coming weeks, we will be releasing a four-part guide on how to make your very own hammock using para cord. This excellent step-by-step tutorial was very kindly supplied by Woodlorean John van Zanen of the Netherlands; thank you!

We’ve split the guide into four different sections, allowing you to have a go at each stage before the next set of instructions is released. Today we have Part 1; we hope you enjoy this guide and would love to hear from anyone that gives it a go.

Part 1:

It is always very rewarding to make your own kit. When I finished the Camp Craft course at Woodlore I decided to make a hammock. I learnt making a hammock using this technique when I was a boy scout and it was quite a long time ago since I had made my last one. But when you are living in a fixed camp a hammock is a useful item. It not only gives you a place to sleep at night but also a place to sit during the day and it adds comfort to the times you spend outdoors.

This is an easy technique and you don’t have to be a knots expert to try to make this sort of hammock. So during the construction of my latest project this summer I took some pictures while I was working and translated the instructions they gave me as a boy scout into English. I hope this guide will inspire my fellow Woodloreans to make their own project. Good luck.

What do you need?

• Sisal rope, two wire, about 1 kilo (when using paracord you will need about 230 meters depending on the length of the hammock)
• Two pieces of wood from 2.6 cm by 1.8 cm by 70 cm long (or just two pieces of wood from nature)
• Two steel rings (optional)
• A shelf or board of about 24 to 110 cm
• Sixty-six nails of 6.5 cm
• Stick or broomstick of about 120 cm
• Tape

Preparing your work board:

Draw the pattern in figure 1 on the shelf and hit the nails into the board at the spots marked with the dots. Remove the heads from the nails with a pair of pliers. Also, drive a nail in the board at the site of cross B. The nails have to stick about 4 cm out of the board. Be careful for nails that protrude below the shelf! Treat the top of the nails with a file and sandpaper and remove the sharp edges to save your hands and your rope.

Figure 1A - The Pattern

(more…)

The following kit review was very kindly sent in by Woodlore customer Julian who, we’d like to point out, is not affiliated with Woodlore in any way – he’s just a very happy customer!

Dear Woodlore,

Yesterday I just used the Honey Stove, and I must say what an amazing piece of kit it is. The crusader cup and stand don’t even compare.

Julian's Honey Stove being put to the test

It’s surprisingly easy to setup and compared to other equipment I’ve owned and used it’s lightweight. The different setup configurations are really handy which make for a very versatile piece of kit.

Once set up, it is a very strong structure. The best thing about it is its flat-pack structure; this makes it ideal for expeditions as it does not take up much space at all. Considering the distances I had to travel and weight limitations put in place on previous expeditions, I say: I wish I had bought it before.

Works extremely well with both wood and fuel tabs. For me this is the best kit in its category I ever bought. I would recommend it to any one. It’s a MUST HAVE!

So far I’m satisfied with all the items I bought from RayMears.com. The best website I came across so far. As I’m doing, I would recommend the website and products to anyone looking to buy this sort of equipment. The quality of the products and knowledge available is the best I ever came across.

Kind Regards,

Julian Muscat Doublesin

Hans Hilverdink,
The Netherlands

Rogelio, a fellow Woodlorean from Spain, e-mailed us previously with some pictures of his hand-made crooked knife handle, which we posted on our blog. Recently, he got in touch with us again, this time with an excellent article on how to make a DIY meth-burning stove from just a tin can. We’ve posted the full guide below, complete with step-by-step pictures, for you all to see. Thanks Rogelio!

Hello Woodloreans,

I have just returned from a friend’s house with whom I have been making my own meth alcohol burner to fit in my pocket stove from tin cans, and after seeing how well it actually works, I thought it would be nice to share with you some pictures on its making.

To start with, you need the bottom ends from two tin cans and a rectangular strip that will fit into them (this must be cut slightly higher than the other pieces, you’ll see why later). If you use cans made from stainless metals it’ll last longer.

Step 1

(more…)

Woodlore customer Joshua Le Pla got in touch with us earlier this year, with photos of his own knife project using the Julius Pettersson Knife Blade. Where Joshua’s design differs from the other knives we see is in his inclusion of unique materials, including the wood from a set of antique bowling balls and a six pence coin:

Hello Woodlore,

My Dad bought me the Hand Forged Knife Blade and Antler Rolls last Christmas, as I requested. I’m 16 years old and a great fan and admirer of Ray Mears. His vast knowledge of all things Bushcraft greatly influenced me into discovering the natural world and what it can offer.

I began to prepare and make the handle for the blade from Christmas day and finished it in March. I have an interest in engineering and woodwork and am currently doing an electro-technical Apprenticeship. This has helped me greatly to create the knife. With my efforts alone (and with help from my granddad in drilling and gluing the pieces), I am very proud of what I have created and will of course give it the utmost respect as it is a dangerous tool.

Joshua's knife, ready to be shaped

Materials used (in order from the front of the tang to the end):

• Stainless steel
• Antler
• Brown leather
• Antler
• Blue leather
• Lignum Vitae (an incredibly dense wood)
• Blue leather
• Antler
• Six pence coin (recessed in the antler)

The end of the handle, showing the six pence coin Joshua included in his design

For the wooden centre piece I wanted something beautiful and exotic which would stand out. I chose Lignum Vitae which I believe is the densest wood in the world. It was very hard to come across however; I eventually found some at a car boot sale, it was a very old set of bowling balls, accordingly it was quite a tricky process in getting the wood rectangular with minimal waste of the wood as I know it is very rare.

Joshua's finished knife handle

This project has been great and a wonderful enjoyment to do, I will cherish this knife for the rest of my life and hope it serves me well as both a camping and woodworking tool. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank Ray for all his programmes and books he has done, they have been a wonderful influence on my life and very eye-opening. Also, thank you Woodlore for selling this great product!

I hope Mr Mears the best of luck in his future series and also hope there are many more to come.

Best regards,

Joshua Le Pla